We began the holiday as all great holidays start, by ordering a local beer and toasting to our arrival. As the sun set behind us our hosts chugged into the harbour by boat and I couldn't stop smiling as we hopped on board to join them. Gleefully happy to be close to the ocean and likely a little tipsy from our early evening beer. We dropped our bags and meandered to the local taverna for our first Greek mezze. Baskets of bread arrived begging to be dipped into freshly made tzatziki and taramasalata. Small dishes crowded the table among them giant fava beans, Greek salad, soured spinach and grilled squid which we devoured and washed down with a local pine-scented spirit, mastic. Just as we were climbing into bed with full tummies and smiling faces we decided to christen our first evening with a midnight swim in the ocean. Temptingly close and pleasantly warm, the water felt healing and invigorating.

The only way to see Hydra is by boat. The rugged island is only 50 kilometres square, but completely captivating when seen from the water, so on our first day we did just that. We hired a rib and circled the island stopping to jump off cliffs, swim in caves and snorkel for rainbow coloured sea urchin shells. I find myself at the helm for the first stretch warning our friend of my track record with cars. He smiles, casually shrugs and guides me into our first cove of the day where we anchor and dive off the boat. What the island lacks in white sand beaches it makes up for in character with its dramatic cliffs, rugged coastline and wild interior. We work up an appetite and stop at a local taverna with beautiful sea views to rest and refuel.

The next day we walk along the cobbled coastal path to Four Seasons where we spend the day lounging in the sunshine and cooling off in the Mediterranean. We roll from the sun bed to the restaurant a few feet away where we spend hours indulging over a late lunch. Small plates of grilled squid, feta stuffed aubergine, roasted chicken and lightly battered courgette arrive at lightening speed from the kitchen. One mojito turns into four and before we know it the sun is sinking below the horizon setting the sky on fire.

We discuss the day’s activities over breakfast and a winning vote takes us to the neighbouring island Spetses. It’s a decent stretch, but we speed across the Aegean Sea and look for the most charming bay to anchor the boat. Another day of snorkelling, sunbathing and swimming ensues, but nobody has a complaint in the world. On the way back to the mainland we stop at neighbouring Dokos and what was initially meant as respite from the choppy journey turns into a spontaneous sunset hike. The path to the summit is dotted with ancient olive trees that twist and tangle with the land and make the island feel frozen in time.

On the last morning, we enjoy a slow breakfast of sweet watermelon and Greek yoghurt under the ancient olive tree which flourishes in the outdoor patio. We take the steps down to the water’s edge and enjoy one final swim in the sea soaking up the freeing feeling knowing the memory will have to last us a long time heading back to lockdowned England. We meander the cobbled path from our sleepy village to Hydra town exploring the island on foot for the first time. This is the Mediterranean epitomised, with fig trees lining the path, rugged coves sculpting the coastline and the scent of pine filling the air. We take the steps to the vantage point marked by the flying Greek flag and are rewarded with pristine views over the coastline and perfectly preserved Hydra town. Time passes in a flurry and before we know it we have to rush back to collect our suitcases and catch the ferry bound for Athens.