The main island that most people visit is Rarotonga which is a rainforest-clad island encircled by shallow waters and topaz lagoons. I would recommend spending between 5-7 nights on this island which would be the perfect amount of time to see the island by land and sea and to spend a couple of days relaxing.

The best places to stay are Muri lagoon and Titikaveka beach. Muri lagoon has a white sandy beach and is located right opposite a cluster of islets making it the ideal spot for kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. The area is sprinkled with beachfront hotels, lovely restaurants and home to Muri Town where you’ll find the night market and a couple of stores. It’s said to be the most beautiful part of the island and you can get around by foot, making it super convenient. Titikaveka beach is a bit quieter and more secluded but has a beautiful beach which you’ll often have all to yourself. It’s also home to my favourite hotel on the island, the Little Polynesian Resort which is part of the exclusive Pacific Resort chain. It features hanging hammocks and an infinity pool, but it’s small size makes it feel homely and intimate.

Rent a scooter and drive the one road around the island, stopping for coconuts and pretty beaches along the way. Kayak to the other tiny islets for views of Rarotonga and its mountainous peak in the distance or spend a day hiking to this peak, known as the Needle.

Aitutaki is a tiny speck of an island which is made up of 15 islets sprinkled across a turquoise lagoon. A lot of people come here on a day trip as it’s only a 45-minute flight from Rarotonga, however I would suggest staying here as it deserves more than a day of your time. I would recommend spending between 3-5 days, depending on how much relaxing and sunbathing you’re up for.

We stayed just off the main island, on a private island home to the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort and Spa because research told us that this was the most beautiful place to stay. It’s located right in the heart of the lagoon so you’re met with shallow, turquoise waters at every turn. The prettiest beach on the main island is said to be O'otu Beach, which is located just across the water from the private resort we stayed at (literally a 10 minute swim).

This paradise island was made for relaxation, but that’s not to say that there’s nothing to do. See more of the vast lagoon on an island-hopping boat trip which will take you to pristine waters and epic sand banks. Hire a bicycle and ride around the island to see more of its luscious, green interior. There’s also a short hike you can do to the top of Mount Maungapu which offers stunning views over the lagoon.

The dry season runs from May to October so preferably try to visit within these months when the temperature remains in the late twenties and there is fewer chance of rain. Bear in mind that these are the tropics, so there is always a slight chance of rain. We went at the beginning of the dry season and experienced heavy downpours for four days in a row. However locals did say that it was very abnormal and usually they just get is the odd sun shower which lasts for five minutes.

My favourite dish that I pretty much ate daily was Ika Mata, a local specialty of raw fish marinated in lime juice and creamy coconut milk. The island fries are also a winner; made with taro, kumara and banana; and served with smoked paprika aioli. The Cook Islands suffer from an extremely high rate of obesity with locals feasting on enormous portions of fried food, locally referred to as ‘island size’. Keep this in mind when ordering as often a starter portion is the same size as what you might deem a main meal.

There are two bus routes that go regularly around the island, imaginatively named Clockwise and Anti-clockwise. The bus fare costs $5 and that will take you the whole way around the island one-way. Otherwise you can rent a scooter from $12.50 a day, but it’s not as easy as just showing your driver’s licence and riding away. You have to pass a Cook Islands driving test, in order to ride a scooter here. Yes, I’m being serious. It’s pretty much a money-making scam, but no rental company will let you hire one without it. It involves a theory and practical test and can be a time consuming process as this is island time. Is it worth it? Definitely! It’ll give you the freedom to explore the island at your own pace and you’ll be able to reach areas that aren’t accessible on the bus route.

Much of the beauty of the Cook Islands can be seen by cruising around the South Pacific by boat. Make sure to book one of the island-hopping trips around Aitutaki which will take you to pristine waters and epic sand banks. They do offer boat trips around Rarotonga, but they don’t compare to the boat trips around Aitutaki.